By Kirk Boxleitner

Last year saw FairWinds Winery celebrate 30 years in operation, making it the oldest winery in Jefferson County. In January, FairWinds owners and staff invited the community to the grand reopening of an expanded and remodeled tasting room.

Micheal Cavett, co-founder and co-owner of FairWinds Winery along with his wife Judy, has introduced close to 20 different wines onto the market, with a new wine planned for release in April. He’s keeping the details on that one close to his chest but in the meantime but you can sample FairWinds wines at the Olympic Peninsula Wineries’ Red Wine and Chocolate Fest from noon to 6 p.m. on Saturday, Feb. 17, at the 7 Cedars Hotel and Casino in Sequim.

Cavett, 83, spoke of the many fond memories he’s built up over three decades in the winery business. He’s only two years away from matching his 32 years of service in the U.S. Navy and Coast Guard, which saw Cavett rise from the enlisted corps to become an officer, and even attain the rank of captain.

“We were only the third winery on the North Olympic Peninsula,” Cavett said. “Now, there are 12 wineries in Jefferson County alone, including the cideries. Back then, there were less than 50 wineries statewide, but now, there’s 1,070.”

Although Cavett occasionally misses the collegial atmosphere that existed when wineries were rarer in Washington, and fellow winery owners would share their knowledge and resources with each other without even being asked, he believes increased competition in the decades since has served to improve the quality of everyone’s wines.

When asked what sets FairWinds Winery apart, Cavett characterized his own wines as “on the drier side, not so sweet,” and a definite improvement over what he produced using the first winemaking kit he received as a birthday gift in the 1970s.

“I followed all the directions, and yet, it turned out terrible,” Cavett laughed. “Still, I thought, ‘It’s so bad, I’ve got nowhere to go from here but up.’”

Micheal Cavett’s daughter, Michelle Cavett, serves as general manager of FairWinds Winery, and she credited her father with infusing his wines with his passion for creativity and quality.

“When he creates a new blend, he’ll tell me, ‘You’ve got to try this, it’s fabulous,’” Michelle said. “He’s not just looking to meet customers’ expectations, but to exceed them.”

Cavett agreed. “I want to over-deliver on value received for money spent,” he said.

Cavett believes FairWinds Winery best serves its customers by retaining a certain measure of tradition, and by reflecting his own nautical roots. Its wine bottle labels are still applied by hand, and the refurbished tasting room includes an authentic brass porthole.

Jefferson County Chamber of Commerce Director Dana Petrick was among the estimated 40-50 attendees who spotted the porthole on the tasting room’s entry door, as she wielded a pair of oversized scissors to commemorate the FairWings reopening on Jan. 20.

Cavett’s years of experience include stints as president of the Jefferson County Chamber and the local Rotary and Toastmasters. He is also a founding member of the Port Townsend Farmers’ Market, and he is pleased to now be able to provide tasting room facilities beyond the spare six-foot banquet table of 30 years before, which carried less than five wine varietals.

“It’s been a privilege to be a member of this community, and to receive so much support,” Cavett said. “With better lighting and fresher paint, the tasting room is more comfortable and inviting.”

Cavett and his equally gregarious daughter manage to be among the more welcoming aspects of any room of the winery they occupy. Cavett eagerly explains which varietals pair best with certain meals and desserts, while Michelle brags on her dad by pointing out the four captain’s stripes on FairWinds’ wine bottle labels. The winery’s name references the traditional sailors’ farewell of “Fair winds and following seas.”

FairWinds Winery is located at 1984 Hastings Ave. W. in Port Townsend. Its tasting room is open every Friday, Saturday and Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. for wine tastings, full pours, and wine flights. If Micheal Cavett is around and feeling indulgent, he might show you his antique but still-operational wine bottle corker, built before Prohibition.

For more information, visit fairwindswinery.com online, or call 360-385-6899.