What’s your first memory of sweetness?

Mine takes me back to when I was 6, alone in my grandma’s kitchen baking applesauce cake. She was busy running her plant nursery, so the kitchen was my playground.

As the cake cooled, I stood on a chair, searching the cupboard for powdered sugar to make the glaze. I found a bottle of McCormick’s peppermint extract and mixed it with the sugar and water. The peppermint was exciting, but the powdered sugar overwhelmed me with sweetness — too sweet. If I’d known the word, I’d have called it cloying.

I quickly cut a piece of the cake and tasted it — apple, brown sugar, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. This was the sweet I loved.

Understanding sweetness in baking

Years of baking have taught me that sweetness is often misunderstood in recipes. Many people rely heavily on white sugars, which provide a straightforward, neutral flavor. While it can enhance and balance other flavors when used correctly, white sugar often takes center stage, leading to an overpowering, bland sweetness. The real art of baking lies in using the right type and amount of sweetener to create spectacular undertones and nuances. White sugar, although versatile, lacks the complexity and depth that is possible in great baking.

The richness of dates

For me, dates are the gold standard. They offer a rich caramel sweetness with deep mineral notes, and they caramelize beautifully when baked. Dates harmonize with a wide range of ingredients, making them versatile and easy to use. They can be pureed for easy measurement and create a sweet yet complex background that allows the star ingredients to shine. Additionally, dates add moisture, fiber, essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. With a low to medium glycemic index, they have a slower impact on blood sugar levels, making them a healthier option. I use pitted Deglet Noor dates in quick breads, cakes, puddings, cream pie fillings, bar cookies, and crumbles.

Unrefined coconut sugar

Unrefined coconut sugar is another favorite for holiday baking. Its mild, caramel-like sweetness enhances flavors without overpowering. Coconut sugar retains moisture, keeping baked goods soft and chewy. It has a lower glycemic index than refined sugars and contains trace vitamins and minerals. With a texture similar to brown sugar, it’s easy to incorporate into recipes. Coconut sugar is also sustainable, derived from coconut palm sap and requiring less energy to produce.

Dried fruits and natural sweeteners

Incorporating dried fruits like figs, raisins, and prunes adds a whole palette of flavors. These fruits add natural sweetness and mineral complexity. Figs are natural candy, raisins give a slight tang, and prunes contribute a spiced earthy flavor. Beyond dried fruits, maple syrup and honey are invaluable in the kitchen. Maple syrup adds a warm, caramel-like sweetness, while honey, with its floral notes, is excellent for glazes and frostings.

Choosing the right sweetener

The right sweetener doesn’t overpower but enchants the flavors, much like the perfect balance of apple and spice in my first cake. We have the choice to create baked goods that capture the essence of true sweetness—complex, satisfying, and heartfelt.

The featured extra recipes on the Food Coop’s Blog are Friar Bob’s Cookies, Flourcrafted Cardamom

Orange Date Mini Loaves, and Flourcrafted Date and Pistachio Cookie Bars. For daily recipes, stories, tips, and techniques from Sidonie, join Facebook’s “Cooking with the Coop.”

Sidonie Maroon is the culinary educator for the Port Townsend Food Co-op. For more recipes on this topic and others, please visit www.foodcoop.coop.

New deal diamonds

Coconut Carob and Cashew Bars: 10-inch round tart cut into diamonds.
These are a family favorite. Rich and chocolaty and all without added sugar, eggs, dairy, gluten, or chocolate! Although, just subtract the chicory and carob and add ½ cup of Dutch cocoa powder for a chocolate version.

Base
1 cup raw cashews
½ cup unsweetened coconut flakes
1 cup pitted dates
¼ cup flaxseeds, ground
¼ teaspoon sea salt

Topping
1 cup raw cashews
½ cup pitted dates
3 tablespoons chia seeds, ground
¼ cup roasted chicory root
½ cup carob flour
2 teaspoons cinnamon
¼ teaspoon sea salt
14-ounce can unsweetened full-fat coconut milk

Making the Base
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Using a spice grinder, grind the flaxseeds into a meal.
Using a high-speed blender or food processor, grind the coconut flakes
and cashews together, add the dates and flax. Grind into a rough paste.
Put the paste into a bowl, mixing in the salt.
Press into a 10-inch round tart pan with a removable bottom.
Press the dough into the bottom and bake in a preheated oven for
12 minutes.

Making the Topping
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Using a spice grinder, grind the chia seeds and roasted chicory together
into a rough powder.
In a high-speed blender, blend the cashews, carob, coconut milk, dates, ground chia, and chicory together until smooth.
Spread the topping onto the base and bake at 350°F for 15 minutes.
Cool and cut into bars on the diagonal (diamonds).