Lincoln’s vision

In 1863, amid the chaos of the Civil War, President Lincoln declared Thanksgiving a national holiday. Before this time, people celebrated Thanksgiving, a traditional harvest festival, on various dates and in different ways. This decision came at a pivotal moment in American history, following the Battle of Gettysburg and issuing the Emancipation Proclamation. In his 1863 Thanksgiving Proclamation, President Lincoln emphasized several key points: National Gratitude, Unity and Healing, Recognition of Sacrifice, Reflection and Introspection and Prayers for Peace. He believed that a national day of thanksgiving could serve as a reminder of resilience, unity, and the importance of gratitude during challenging times.

Sarah Josepha Hale was a driving force behind making Thanksgiving a national holiday. Her relentless push for a day of gratitude helped embed Thanksgiving into American culture. However, her Victorian-era love of storytelling led to the embellishment—and possibly the fabrication—of the First Thanksgiving tale involving Native Americans and Pilgrims. This story, without fact checking, became part of American folklore, and highlights the era’s fondness for romanticizing history.

In the Victorian era, hosting elaborate meals was a sign of hospitality. The turkey became the star of the Thanksgiving meal. Side dishes like stuffing, mashed potatoes, and cranberry sauce became favorites. The tradition of serving pies, such as pumpkin and apple, also began in this era, highlighting the Victorians’ love for sweets.

French cooking had a big impact on Victorian cuisine, introducing fancy methods like sautéing and braising. These techniques made side dishes more flavorful and appealing. Chefs started experimenting with ingredients from around the world, adding new flavors to traditional dishes.

Victorian cooking was all about balancing different tastes: sweet, sour, salty, and bitter. Sweet dishes often came with tangy sauces or pickled veggies, creating an exciting mix of flavors. Fresh, seasonal ingredients were key, and herbs and spices were used to enhance their natural tastes. Sauces added richness, while exotic spices brought new aromas to the table.

While our Thanksgiving meals have changed over time, many Victorian influences persist. Today, we often mix contrasting flavors in a single dish, drawing inspiration from global cuisines. This blend of flavors gives classic dishes a modern twist, appealing to today’s tastes.

Various cultural influences have added depth to the Thanksgiving menu. African American culinary traditions have made sweet potatoes a staple, often served as sweet potato pie or candied yams. Indigenous ingredients like wild rice, grown by the Ojibwe people, and squash, cultivated by the Iroquois Confederacy, showcase the rich agricultural heritage of Native American communities. Pecans, traditionally gathered by the Choctaw people, bring a Southern flavor to Thanksgiving desserts.

As we gather for Thanksgiving, let’s honor the diverse influences that shape this imperfect yet important holiday. Yes, history is complex and its stories flawed, but Thanksgiving remains an opportunity to give and gather. Through food and feast, we continue to connect with history, culture, and each other. We can celebrate a holiday that continues to evolve, honoring and updating traditions. It serves as a reminder of resilience, unity, and the importance of family and community during challenging times.

Sidonie Maroon is the culinary educator for the Port Townsend Food Co-op. Please visit www.foodcoop.coop for more of her Thanksgiving recipes.